Kaiser stemco king pins1/10/2024 User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! - I AM Full Of S_T!. After-all, they are critical steering components. thanks, Rawze from Īlso, the proper torque spec for every axle type is different too, keep that in mind. I always use a proper torque wrench for avoidance of liability and if for no other reason, to instill confidence into the truck owner of my professionalism and the proper repair of his equipment. I have helped many people replace pitman arms, tie-rods, and these style of bushings. I have the proper reamer (yes they are expensive, got mine at McMaster-Carr) and other tools + proper torque wrenches, etc. My background on this: I have done this same exact job for my own equipment and for others. Add in checking the new backlash by using a dial indicator on it based on manual specs and you suddenly, in the eyes of most youtube how-to watchers, go from "mediocre mechanic" to "quite professional" for those who watch your videos. Just a heads up, perhaps make the video again and add in these things + torque everything properly with a torque wrench according to the manuals (free online from Hendrickson). Just pointing out the obvious as tips for your videos so that no one tries to follow this and kills themselves or someone else because they did not get it right. In other words, Everyones "arm" adjustment is different, so torque is used as a standard conveyance of how tight something should be and it removes that liability of possible component failure for anyone in the future. Using a torque wrench conveys "How Tight Piss is" (235 - 300 ft lbs in the case of the sleeved hub nut and 185 ft-lbs, then turn to key hole for the castle nuts) into the video correctly and when explaining things to others in your shop. To put it into perspective, You simply state "don't over-tighten them" and "tighten the piss out of it" for the hub nut. No cleaning + acetone to the tapered fit steering components so they donl't just spin when using the torque wrench for correct tightness of the castle nuts. The entire video also goes south at the installation of the pitman arm, the tie-rod end, and the hub bearing retaining nut back into place. These are critical steering components and it only takes one accident that kills someone + this video, then you + your shop would be buried in lawsuits. You can choose to disagree and your "Arm" may be calibrated well enough, but not using a torque wrench suddenly becomes a serious liability for you and your shop. It only takes a few seconds to torque something properly while your there to improve the standards of what a shop does. Not trying to be an A-hole or a troll, just a truck owner who expects a high degree of professionalism and care for proper methods. I however do not agree that you did not use a proper torque wrench on any of the bolts or the steering components. Rawze Wrote:Pretty decent video, thanks for sharing. Just posting the video here to show what Hendrickson king pins.bushings look like). (warning, this guy fails to properly torque things and makes several mistakes, especially towards the end. I found a video on youtube for this but the guy never used a torque wrench on any of the critical steering components, so I would not recommend following it unless you use the manual instead. When you replace the bushings, you have to precision machine the brass with a reamer and guide before installing them into the housings for proper fit to match the wear of the non-replaceable king pin. They are also typically a bit larger diameter than most other types of axle king pins. On my model Hendrickson front axles, you don't replace the king pins, they are hardened and non-replaceable. However, Every type of axle is different. Here is a procedure for many types of front axles.
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